Atul Kochhar was a firm favourite when his Indian restaurants were on the high seas. He was the Michelin star chef behind the Sindhu chain at P&O. Now, this celebrity chef has been awarded two Michelin stars and has several restaurants. They are in and around London and in India. We visited his Berkeley Square restaurant many years ago after discovering his food on the P&O ship Arcadia at a fraction of the central London cost. Recently we went to three of his restaurants to see what we are missing now he is no longer on the ships. His many fans may like to know where he is and what order we favoured the restaurants in. Tonight, we are going back to Wembley. No cameras.

Masalchi in Wembley (four of us, about £160 with drinks). Street-like food. It was fabulous. And they serve Malabar beer!

Hawkyns in Amersham (four of us about, £210 with drinks). We loved it… and see what the chef gave us at the end.

Riwaz in Beaconsfield (two of us about, £130 with drinks).

These were the three we visited, unannounced and as normal guests. We paid the bill, which was much more than on a ship. Also, we start by remembering the meal in the Arcadia restaurant, the Sindhu. The P&O fine dining cost was a fraction of the on-land price.